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 Post subject: Re: Linear bearing mod for x axis
PostPosted: Fri Jan 22, 2016 2:52 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 16, 2015 8:16 pm
Posts: 124
Country: USA
Laser Type: 5th Gen
Kind of mirrors my sentiments. There are a lot of little things I've thought about changing/improving but it basically boils down to replacing basically all the hardware. I'm curious if they'll still sell a bare controller card to build around or jam in a Chinese machine; it's steep at $1500, but when you look at reselling the machine vs. keeping it effectively just for the controller, it's not an unattractive alternative.


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 Post subject: Re: Linear bearing mod for x axis
PostPosted: Fri Jan 22, 2016 3:43 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 30, 2014 11:43 am
Posts: 755
Location: Finleyville, PA
Country: USA
Laser Type: 5th Gen 45W hobby
The big issue i see with that is that the lack of documentation on things like rated motor current for the controller. So I go bigger with motors, what am I going to burn out on the first stall?

I find some of the lack odd for what was described as a hobbyist machine. To me, a tech hobbyist always builds, tinkers, and tweaks.

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Azzy's Design Works - teamadw.com
Equipment: 5th gen FSL hobby, 45w, w rotary and frustration, KNK MaxxAir 24" plotting cutter, Roland LEF-20 Eco-UV Printer, Thunder Laser Nova 35 100w


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 Post subject: Re: Linear bearing mod for x axis
PostPosted: Tue Feb 09, 2016 4:22 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 23, 2015 4:51 pm
Posts: 94
Country: USA
Laser Type: 5th Gen, 45W
I have a few questions;
What is holding the axis limit blade to the carriage?
What size alum angle for the brackets?
did you remove the wiper assy's to allow freer movement?
I got my rail and carriage today and my mileage varied wildly over $200
any tips or suggestions since you have yours up and running?
Walter


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 Post subject: Re: Linear bearing mod for x axis
PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2016 8:34 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 30, 2014 11:43 am
Posts: 755
Location: Finleyville, PA
Country: USA
Laser Type: 5th Gen 45W hobby
Quote:
What is holding the axis limit blade to the carriage?


Double sided tape (signage industry stuff called Big Red, its tough and thin, and pressure sensitive)

Quote:
What size alum angle for the brackets?


1.5"

Quote:
did you remove the wiper assy's to allow freer movement?


Yes, they did bind the motors originally. Im running one side, to at least clean the surface as it goes, but with a clipped spring. I'll snap a picture of that mod if I can later.

Quote:
I got my rail and carriage today and my mileage varied wildly over $200
any tips or suggestions since you have yours up and running?


Run it a bit with the laser off, to break in new belts.

Dont go too nuts on mods for this machine. Its not worth it in the long run. Unless you plan on modding the Y axis, making both larger, and replacing the motors with something beefier... well, by that point, you've got a whole different machine.

Only so much you can do for it. This will at least keep it engraving for some time, albeit slowly. I blew through 2 X axis and detested the preload adjustment design, and this mod fixed that, so I am satisfied with it there.

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Azzy's Design Works - teamadw.com
Equipment: 5th gen FSL hobby, 45w, w rotary and frustration, KNK MaxxAir 24" plotting cutter, Roland LEF-20 Eco-UV Printer, Thunder Laser Nova 35 100w


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 Post subject: Re: Linear bearing mod for x axis
PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2016 10:23 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 23, 2015 4:51 pm
Posts: 94
Country: USA
Laser Type: 5th Gen, 45W
Azzy;
Thanks for the information...
I know this machine is limited but an Epilog or such is out of the question.
I really bought the FS because the interface program will take input from any program that can output to a printer, I use an obscure purpose made CAD program call 3rdPlanit (It's for model Railroad design and is 3d capable) It self scales to your modeling scale and outputs 1 to 1 if you ask it to. I don't know if anyone elses interface will deal with the files the same way. I don't use any graphics programs at all. I make model railroad structure kits so 98% of what I do is cut.
So short of spending a fortune on an Epilog and trying to get it to run with RE I'm stuck here.
The short answer is to make the FS5 as precision as possible and as powerful as necessary, but a 24" table would be really nice as most basswood sheets come x by 24"
Walter


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 Post subject: Re: Linear bearing mod for x axis
PostPosted: Wed Feb 17, 2016 9:45 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 30, 2014 11:43 am
Posts: 755
Location: Finleyville, PA
Country: USA
Laser Type: 5th Gen 45W hobby
Im waiting to see pictures!

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Azzy's Design Works - teamadw.com
Equipment: 5th gen FSL hobby, 45w, w rotary and frustration, KNK MaxxAir 24" plotting cutter, Roland LEF-20 Eco-UV Printer, Thunder Laser Nova 35 100w


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 Post subject: Re: Linear bearing mod for x axis
PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2017 2:40 am 
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Joined: Thu Feb 02, 2017 3:06 am
Posts: 120
Location: Oregon
Country: USA
Laser Type: 5th gen Hobby
Azzy, If you still have the pictures from this thread and it's not too much trouble, can you re-post/re-host or email them to me? I'm seriously considering doing this mod, since most of what we do is engraving over the entire work area.

Mcmaster is currently showing me prices of ~$116 for the carriage and $93 for the rail.

If I can spend a couple hundred to put off the purchase of an epilog... sounds like a good deal :lol:


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 Post subject: Re: Linear bearing mod for x axis
PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2017 1:33 am 
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Joined: Thu Feb 02, 2017 3:06 am
Posts: 120
Location: Oregon
Country: USA
Laser Type: 5th gen Hobby
So I got the new X gantry system installed today. No more wiggly lines where they should be straight while rastering.

Annoyingly, when I went to put it back together, I noticed the two Y blocks were out of alignment by 1/4". So I had to loosen the coupler in back and even them up. I'm sure that didn't help either.

I'll post some more pictures later.


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 Post subject: Re: Linear bearing mod for x axis
PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2017 11:25 am 
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Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2016 5:24 pm
Posts: 170
Country: USA
Laser Type: FSLaser 5th Gen
@hoozie Would you mind posting pics and details of your upgrade and the parts you used?

Thanks

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Shapeoko 3 CNC - KNK Vinyl Cutter - Abrasive Cabinet


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 Post subject: Re: Linear bearing mod for x axis
PostPosted: Sat Feb 18, 2017 2:24 pm 
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Joined: Thu Feb 02, 2017 3:06 am
Posts: 120
Location: Oregon
Country: USA
Laser Type: 5th gen Hobby
I'll post some pictures later. It's currently catching up on a big project we need to finish. :lol:

I used the two Mcmaster part numbers from the first post. 6738K221 , 6738K74 , for ~$210. Also the L bracket below, and some M5x10mm bolts, M3x10mm bolts, and M5 washers.

I cut ~3/4" off each end of the rail. This let me use the stock holes in the 720mm rail.

I got some 1.25" aluminum 'L' bracket (1/8" thick), and cut it to be the same width as the blocks on each Y axis. 1.5" tall and 1.25" wide would be better. Mcmaster 8982K11

Then I made a template I could use with the drill press to put the holes 0.969" from the rear outside edge of the L bracket, and 31mm apart (which is the spacing of the holes on the stepper motor). It's more important that they're both in line and parallel to the back edge and the same on both brackets. Any offset can be adjusted later with washers.

Then I made a template to drill the hole in the vertical part of the L for the rail to mount to, and tapped them to M5. This hole was 1.017" up from the outside bottom edge, but it may need to up another hair. I need to double check my measurements. Also having 1.5" on the vertical section would be better. Again, it's important that both brackets have the holes at the same height. There's a little room to adjust the height of each end when you tighten them down, but it's easier if they're the same.

Then I removed the old rail, (should have) adjusted the two blocks on the Y axis to be aligned to each other (they were off by 1/4"). Adjust the wheels on the Y axis blocks, then mount the new brackets and the rail, with the carriage already adjusted and on the rail (I removed the wipers from the carriage). Would be good to make sure the new rail is both level to the top of the Y blocks and parallel to the front of the machine.

For the red carriage, I drilled out the upper right wheel hole to ~0.200", sized for an M5 bolt. I threaded that one in to the carriage, then marked to drill the upper left hole for the second M5. The second hole touched the existing hole for the old wheel. Do your best to make sure these holes are even/parallel to the top edge. Don't want it crooked!

I used 3 M5 washers to move the lens holder away from the carriage and get the timing belt parallel to itself. YMMV.

My homing switch is currently hacked on there :lol: (something about 7 layers of double-sided sticky tape). I'm still coming up with a more robust solution.

The air tube has a tubing clamp and a low profile bolt holding it in the middle of the rail.

Like I said, I'll take a bunch of pictures later. I'm even contemplating putting together a kit with the brackets and rail cut and drilled, and ready to mount, if there's any interest. But I may need to make my own lens holders with the new spacing to mount to the carriage, since it needs drilled too.

Edit: Just looked at the Inch carriage and rail. They're a little cheaper, and if I did my math right, you can still use the stock holes in the rail to mount to the brackets, but that changes some of the measurements above.


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